A Raucous Lenten Feast
Chicago's Irish American community knows how to.host a Friday night fish fry
Lent is a solemn observance and a season of self-reflection. Centered on prayer, fasting, and almsgiving, it’s characteristically an alcohol-free, abstinent affair.
The Lenten fish fry at Chicago’s Irish American Heritage Center (4626 N. Knox Ave.) on a recent Friday night, however, was anything but. Raucous energy erupted the moment we stepped out of our car as boisterous young lasses darted past us to the front door. The clippety-clop of their jig shoes signaled they were members of the dance troupe set to perform later that evening.
The chaos continued as we passed under the Irish flag and went inside. It brought back joyful memories of cavorting with classmates on the rare occasions I was at primary school after hours for band recitals and plays. Rambunctious children flitted about while parents waited in line to buy tickets to the all-you-can-eat fried fish dinner (Adults: $18, Children under 12: $13).
Plastic-covered folding tables were set-up in every usable nook and the first floor was packed to the gills (pun intended) with the buffet line folding back on itself. We grabbed a round of Harp, made our way to the dimly-lit Fifth Province pub and settled-in for the evening.
The cozy fireplace, convivial atmosphere and flat cap-wearers drinking Irish quaffs were more evocative of a County Mayo public house than any nearby neighborhood bar. A man with a brogue (were we actually in Ireland?) approached us and asked if he could introduce us to a judicial candidate on the Illinois ballot. Rather than learning of her credentials, we were treated to a lively retelling of their dating history: they found one another on eHarmony; he recently took her to Ireland to meet his family; the verdict’s still out on whether they will tie the knot (she’s in favor, as is his “very Catholic” family; he’s less interested at this stage in life).
Joining the buffet line, we stood among parents enjoying a moment to themselves while their kids chased one another around. We approached a group of disinterested teens who portioned out the cod (one piece or two?) and french fries on styrofoam plates.
I don’t know how the Heritage Center always manages to turn out such high-quality food for this size group week after week—there were hundreds of attendees on this particular Friday—but everything was hot and delicious.
The beer-battered cod filets had a perfect golden complexion, as did the fresh-cut fries. I couldn’t get enough of the coleslaw, which managed to be incredibly creamy and crunchy at the same time. The peas were bright as a leprechaun’s trousers, cooked perfectly al dente.
The condiment situation brings us to my sole complaint: malt vinegar and tartar sauce are served in measly plastic packets. As someone who views fried fish as a delivery vehicle for pickle-relish spiked mayo, I tore through eight or nine packets in order to make my cod adequately saucy.
Above the exuberant din of the Guinness-fueled crowd, the Trinity Academy of Irish Dance troupe thundered onto the floor. As a former ballerina and a sucker for Riverdance (shout out to Chicago’s own Michael Flatley!), I adored watching kids as young as six years old attempt such mesmerizing footwork.
By 8pm, most families had departed and live music commenced. The entertainment typically skews Irish, with patrons joining in for rounds of “Whiskey in a Jar,” but on our recent visit an acoustic guitarist belted out classic rock hits by the likes of The Beatles and The Who.
On our way out we made a requisite stop at the gift shop, which features imported foodstuffs, Irish woolens, crafts from the Heritage Center’s own Nimble Thimbles and “authentic turf directly from Ireland so your fireplace smells like home.” As Conan O’Brien can attest, the main reason to stop in is for the wide selection of Taytos, Ireland’s celebrated crisps (aka potato chips).
With Irish beers on tap, outstanding fish and chips with all the fixings, rollicking entertainment and an opportunity to grab a bag of smoky bacon Taytos for the car ride home, the Irish American Heritage Center’s Friday night fish fry may just be the best Lenten celebration in all of Chicago.
Photos by Jared Wheeler
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Everyone----Be sure to click the Conan link and watch his visit. I guarantee you will be rolling around the floor laughing. This is a great post.
An elderly German-American guy in North Carolina who enjoys a good Oktoberfest.
Did you run into Conan?