Santa María La Ribera

“There is Life Outside Roma-Condesa”

The irrepressible cool of Mexico City (at least according to most American-facing sources) revolves around the hipster epicenter of Roma and Condesa. The magnetic pull of the area’s stunning Art Deco and Colonial-Revival architecture and the wealth of design shops, open-air cafes and bars admittedly led me to book an extended Airbnb stay for BB and myself near Parque Mexico in 2022.   

There’s no denying the beauty of Roma

While we adored many things about the neighborhood, we were curious to explore parts of the city less heavily-marketed to people like us (yes, I’m aware of the contradiction here). BB and I signed up for a tour with Anais Martinez (aka the “Curious Mexican”) to explore a colonia called Santa María La Ribera as part of her company’s “Meet the Hood” series. 

As Anais explains:

“[Meet the Hood] will showcase each barrio's unique vibe through its food, drinks, quirks, the casual landmark and of course its marvelous people. From fancy tortillerías to street stands, from dessert shops to old-school cantinas and anything in between. We'll dig into the secrets of the barrio as we fall in love with it!”

In all caps, she writes: “There is life outside Roma-Condesa.”

Indeed, there is. 

Located northwest of the historic centro, Santa María La Ribera was one of the earliest enclaves developed after the city center and is regarded for its architectural charms. It, too, boasts many Art Deco marvels and has one of the highest percentages of buildings recognized for their architectural and historical value by the Instituto de Bellas Artes. The difference between Santa María La Ribera and Condesa, however, is that many of the former’s buildings are in disrepair unlike those of the latter, owing to rent control and the fact that many residents want to maintain the barrio’s traditional character. (Locals are justifiably weary of the architectural improvements that led to Condesa and Roma’s gentrification.)

Each time I mention Santa María La Ribera to Chilangos (Mexico City residents) they get a twinkle in their eyes, as it’s one of the city’s most cherished neighborhoods. Its beating heart is the Alameda, a leafy park whose centerpiece is the stunning wrought iron Moorish Kiosk originally built as the Mexico Pavilion for the 1884 World’s Fair in New Orleans — a backdrop for Zumba lessons, makeshift soccer games, salsa dancing and the consumption of endless gustatory delights. The Alameda is surrounded by lively cafes, street food vendors and a world-class Geology Museum, whose Porfirian-era building (from 1906) is as remarkable as the collection of gems, meteorites and fossils it houses.

At the Southeastern end of the neighborhood rises El Chopo, a university museum that’s been a countercultural hotspot since the 1970s. It birthed the Chopo Tianguis, a street market selling goods aimed at goths, emos and punks (which now takes place on Saturdays just outside Santa María La Ribera’s eastern border) and hosts exhibitions, film festivals and other activities centered on conceptual art.

While these cultural icons are compelling reasons to explore Santa María La Ribera, it’s the everyday places and unassuming vibe that really drew us in. On our food tour, Anais and her spunky colleague Monica took us to food stalls, markets and restaurants that receive little to no mention in American reporting. From the gargantuan tortas at Rio Sella to the tacos de canasta at the Alameda’s southeast corner to the fresh strawberries drenched in cream at La Florida, every bite was just as good, if not better, than the things we’ve sampled at heavily-profiled establishments.

BB and I decided to spend a month in Santa María La Ribera to dive deeper into the neighborhood. We are navigating the daily rhythms of the surrounding blocks and engaging with characters who populate this vibrant corner of the city. You’ll meet the boy with no lenses in his glasses and the lovely esquites vendor in later posts; in the meantime, consider this a tasty antojito before the feast to come.

Photos by Jared Wheeler

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