Pizza Perfection in the Quad Cities
A throwback pizza parlor that serves topnotch fried chicken is the perfect stop on the way to Kansas City
Our preferred Chicago-to-Kansas City route for semiannual family visits is through Iowa on I-80. Not only do we get a kick out of the world’s largest truck stop, but quality Quad Cities pizza beckons far more than St. Louis’ Provel-topped pies.
For those who have never heard of the Quad Cities, the designation refers to the metro region that straddles the Illinois/Iowa border at the confluence of the Mississippi and Rock Rivers. The Quad Cities are really the Quint Cities: Bettendorf and Davenport, Iowa; East Moline, Moline and Rock Island, Illinois.
If you order pizza in these parts, you’ll find hand-kneaded crust enhanced with malt syrup or molasses and a heavy layer of mozzarella cheese applied after the toppings go down. In spite of claims that the tomato sauce is spiked with chili flakes or ground cayenne, it’s “Midwestern spicy”…in other words, slightly tangy but not at all hot.
On our most recent road trip, tipped off by Smokin' Chokin' and Chowing with the King—an indispensable resource for regional food enthusiasts—we had an outstanding meal at Frank’s Club Napoli Pizza, 711 1st Ave, Silvis, IL (adjacent to East Moline). With its welcoming, Main Street America vibes and masterful Midwestern fare, there’s no place I’d rather stop along I-80.
I adore the aesthetic of classic Chicago pizza taverns (i.e. Vito & Nick’s and Marie’s Pizza & Liquors) and so I was delighted by Frank’s retro interior, with its patterned formica-top tables and vinyl chairs.
On a Friday at 12:30pm the dining room was at full tilt, bookended by a 12-top of elderly regulars and a group of boisterous construction workers.
We claimed one of the last remaining tables and sipped Sprite-tinged ice water from shatterproof plastic tumblers as we studied the menu.
Though sausage is the de rigueur pizza topping in much of the Midwest, we opted for the undersung meatball.1 After seeing a comment on the aforementioned blog hyping the fried chicken, we ordered that too.
Our pizza arrived piping hot, with a beautifully-blistered topcoat of glossy mozzarella. The meatballs were tender, well-seasoned and perfectly-spaced out across the pie.
The crust had the faintest hint of malt and just the right amount of chew. For my money, it was the perfect height—somewhere between a Pillsbury Crescent Roll and a Wheat Thin.
Our pizza had the hallmark scissor-cut strips, with some pieces heavier on the crust and others heavier on the sauce, meatballs and cheese. As a crust devotee I immediately reached for a corner strip, though the luscious inner pieces were just as satisfying.
Frank’s fried chicken was another home run. The textural contrast between the hard-fried exterior and the juicy meat had us tearing through the half-bird at a terrifying pace. I loved the aggressive seasoning, which was just the right side of too salty.
The bonus serving of two absurdly-thick slices of homemade bread slathered in a boatload of butter warmed my heart. Outside of the buttered roll of my youth, never have I ever seen so much butter applied to sliced bread.
Like the chicken, the side of steak fries were hard-fried to a deep caramel color and delicious. The larger pieces were nice and fluffy while the smaller bits were delightfully greasy.
As we settled our bill our waitress talked-up a number of must-try menu items including the pastachina, a pasta casserole doused in meat sauce and cheese and broiled until bubbling and browned.
Lucky for us, we plan to return to Frank’s again and again, to experience more of the exceptional offerings at this down-home Quad Cities establishment.
All photos by Jared Wheeler.
Quad Cities Pro Tip
If you have a sweet tooth, the Quad Cities are for you. Lagomarcino’s is an old school confectionery and ice cream parlor with delectable hot fudge sundaes. Whitey’s has outstanding ice cream and a nostalgic soda jerk aesthetic.
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When skillfully executed, I think meatballs are more nuanced in texture and flavor profile than fennel-heavy ground sausage. I wish more pizza parlors would feature meatball-topped pies.
Love your description of Frank’s and the meatball pizza and fried chicken. It sound like we’ll have to plan a visit to the Quad (or Quint) cities for some pizza! 🍕